How To Stop Dog Barking

Have you ever arrived home from work to find the dreaded note on your door regarding your barking dog? Do you receive side-eye from the neighbors while your pup is in the yard barking like a madman through the fence? Ever had warnings from postal carriers and delivery folks that they refuse to come near your front porch due to your barking pooch? If your answer is “yes” to any of these — your dog might have a barking problem! 

Excessive barking is a common issue that causes strain on the dog/pet parent bond and often creates uncomfortable conflict with neighbors. Sadly, barking can also contribute to the difficult decision for pet parents to re-home or relinquish their dogs.

While barking is actually a normal and natural behavior that we humans selectively bred into modern dogs (wolves rarely make many sounds!), sometimes your dog’s barking can get out of control. In some cases, barking can even indicate a health issue! Let’s explore the motivations behind excessive barking and discover what your pup may be expressing through their vocalization. We will also look into some possible approaches to bring peace back into your household.  

Barking as a Natural Behavior

Everyday life contains many triggers for a dog to bark. Believe it or not, when she loses her marbles over the postal worker’s daily visit and vocalizes to get your attention, your dog is actually exhibiting normal instinctive behaviors. Some of the most common motivations behind barking are also related to a dog’s innate drive to protect their territory and to warn others to stay away. Your dog may also learn that barking will gain attention from family members or other animal buddies. Some dogs have figured out that even more barking gets the immediate reaction they seek! Does your dog go ballistic when the doorbell rings? Yep, they’ll bark in response to different sounds and stimuli, too. 

How do you distinguish instinctual/learned behaviors versus a health problem that may be causing your dog to bark? Here are some clues:

-Is your dog genetically programmed to be vocal? (guarding breeds, small breeds, etc)

-How do you respond to your dog’s barking — Do you yell back (viewed by your dog as “joining in” his mission)? Do you pacify them immediately and provide what they are seeking (positively reinforcing the behavior)?

-While they’re barking, do you give your dog a treat/favorite chew in order to silence them (more positive reinforcement and reward for the behavior)?

-Does your dog view his barking as a success (does he “chase” postal workers away every day)?

-Do you have multiple dogs that feed off of each other and rile each other up?

-Does the barking happen when you are home? Is it predictable at certain times during the day? In response to an outside stimulus or sound?

If any of the above describes your pooch, then guess what? Your dog has learned that his barking is successful and possibly even appreciated by you, even though you may feel otherwise! 

Although these behaviors are undesirable, they are in fact pretty normal but exaggerated ways for dogs to communicate their wishes and feelings. It is also very important to identify when instinctual barking may have been positively reinforced–usually unintentionally–by pet parents and family members. Treatment/rehabilitation for this type of barking is approached very differently than barking caused by a health issue. However, just because you’ve got a dog that has learned that his barking achieves desired results does not mean you are doomed to be irritated by it forever! 

Barking Due to a Health Issue        

If the above descriptions don’t quite fit your pup, consider that his vocalization may indicate that a mental or physical health issue could be the root cause. If they do not bark when you are at home, but they fall to pieces shortly after you leave the house, they may be experiencing separation anxiety. Dogs with separation anxiety as well as phobias to storms and noises will panic and bark excessively due to the anxiety and fear that they are feeling.

Also, dogs in pain and distress may bark, especially older dogs that may be experiencing cognitive decline (kind of like dementia). When these senior pups become more confused, uncomfortable, and disoriented, it is natural for them to “seek help” by barking. 

Sometimes dogs will bark due to a combination of things too. Careful observation of the circumstances that prompt your dog to bark excessively will be very helpful to your veterinarian, board-certified veterinary behaviorist, or certified trainer who you’ve enlisted to help. The approach to barking caused by mental and physical health issues aims to target the underlying medical condition, as opposed to just the behavior of barking itself. It is very important to know the context surrounding the excessive barking at home so your veterinarian can critically examine the situation and tailor the treatments appropriately.

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Treatments for Barking

Thankfully, although most dogs do bark, it does not typically occur often enough to create a serious disturbance. However, unrestrained chronic barking can really disrupt the peace of your home and your relationships with the neighbors–and imagine the stress your pup might be enduring if there is a mental issue at play!  

Socialization 

Puppy Training and socialization can be a game-changer to prevent issues like barking from the get-go! Excessive barking can be avoided altogether if a puppy is socialized thoroughly. What does thorough socialization entail? We’re glad you asked! 

Socialization means that, at a young age, your pup is introduced with positive reinforcement to diverse situations, people, and dogs. Crate training a puppy can help with confidence and teach them to feel secure even when home alone. Teaching basic commands and behavior techniques also creates a well-balanced adult dog. For pet parents, learning how to respond calmly and appropriately to puppy behaviors is important, and can be learned from trainers and fear-free training books. Teaching a puppy to learn to focus their attention on you when they are aroused or excited and to learn that treats are given for calm and quiet behavior, will help prevent barking issues and even provide an easier time if/when any bothersome behaviors do need to be addressed. 

Alas though, if your pooch is past the puppy period you’ve got some work to do! In general, punishment (like spraying with water, etc) for barking is rarely successful nor encouraged, and can even cause your dog to feel confused or fearful. Especially true for dogs that bark due to everyday stimuli (guarding, postal workers, folks walking by, genetics) the best outcome is usually achieved with positive reinforcement for good quiet behavior and desensitization to the stimulus.

It is important to distinguish the motivation and triggers behind the constant barking before you start to consider what treatments may be successful. Here are some common approaches to consider if barking in your home has gotten out of control.

Bark Collars–and Why They Don’t Work

There are a variety of bark-activated, punishment-based, barking deterrents and collars on the market. They range from giving a little electric “zap”, noise, or puff of citronella in order to discourage the barking behavior. Some pet parents can see improvement with these products. However, dogs often learn to avoid the punishment delivered by the collar. For example, they will learn to turn their heads to dodge the puff of citronella or once they get used to the deterrent, they will just bark right on through the annoyance. They also quickly learn that they can freely bark like crazy when the bark collar is off. After all, your dog is no dummy! 

Since these deterrent devices can be activated by another dog’s bark, they’re not an option for dogs in multi-dog households. Worst of all, deterrent collars can make a stressed and anxiety-ridden pup much worse since they are now being negatively punished for their fear while their pet parent is gone. Can you imagine someone punishing you for being scared? Would that make you more or less frightened?!

Muzzles are a No-No Too

Some pet parents ask, “why can’t I just put a muzzle on my dog to stop the barking?” The use of nylon muzzles or metal/plastic basket muzzles are not recommended under any circumstances to control barking. Muzzles are not intended for this purpose, can be dangerous if used for extended periods of time, and are not to be used if the muzzled dog is left unattended. If your dog vomits while wearing a muzzle, he could inhale his vomit and develop pneumonia–or worse. If he is unable to pant over a long period of time due to the restrictive muzzle, he could also be in danger. Muzzles are a valuable tool in some circumstances–but NOT for stopping a dog from barking. 

So…What DOES Work? Desensitization, Positive Reinforcement, and Training!

Desensitization is when your dog is repeatedly exposed to a stimulus (like someone approaching the door) slowly and in a controlled manner, so as to not trigger their typical emotional response. The goal is for your dog over time to become less sensitive and emotional to the stimulus. How does this happen? By repeatedly re-creating your dog’s favorite barking triggers, and making those triggers into a complete non-event. When a visitor to your door “means nothing” to your dog, they will be more relaxed and less inclined to bark to protect the home. Even better, you can turn it into a positive event (see below)!

AskVet Tip: You may want to enlist the help of a friend or family member with this type of exercise! As someone approaches the door, ignore your dog’s barking but hang out nearby with some treats at the ready. Once they finally stop barking (they usually will pause or take a break), or “sit” on your command, toss a favorite treat in their direction. Repeating this over and over (even dozens of times, days in a row!) will eventually train your dog that he gets rewarded for calm behavior. 

It’s important that when your dog DOES bark instead of sitting quietly, he is IGNORED. As we discussed, punishment only amplifies the emotion your dog is feeling about a particular situation. Do not yell at your dog, raise your voice, spray them with a water bottle, or anything else to punish him. Rather, IGNORE him and as soon as he calms down, toss a treat his way! Reward the behavior you want, and ignore the behavior you don’t. Never reward a dog that is actively barking by giving them a treat or the attention they are seeking, as this will inadvertently encourage the behavior that landed you here in the first place. 

Counterconditioning is the other side of the psychological coin: associating a troublesome trigger with a positive experience. This replaces the negative behavior with positive emotions and encourages the desired response from your pup. For example, some postal workers have figured out a strategy to come to the house bearing dog treats, encouraging your dog to welcome them to the porch as a friend and not a foe! 

Both counterconditioning and desensitization techniques take time and patience and require repetition, praise and rewards for positive desired behavior. Training and behavior modification does not occur overnight, and constantly repeating these practices is necessary. All of your hard work will pay off over time–we promise! 

Utilize Appropriate Behavior Resources, Books, and Certified Trainers

To ensure that you are not confusing your dog by sending mixed signals or missing opportunities to reinforce the behavior you want, reading a well-regarded training book is recommended–we like books by Dr. Sophia Yin, a board-certified veterinary behaviorist, and Dr. Patricia McConnell, an animal behaviorist. Resources (blogs, and videos included) from either of these professionals will help you achieve the most speedy and sustained changes in your dog’s behavior.

Consulting a certified dog trainer in your home and seeing them in action with your dog is a great way to gain some tips and tricks for altering your pup’s behavior, and for altering your own response. The trainer may be able to advise on techniques including training your dog to bark on a verbal cue (“speak” or “bark”), and then stop with a command (“quiet” or “silent”). Sometimes, this simple trick can resolve most of a dog’s troublesome barking–since they realize they are only supposed to bark when commanded to do so! A trainer can also share pointers for training a dog to go to a specific location in your home on command, distracting your dog, and stopping the barking behavior in its tracks. 

Avoiding the Stimulus

Using avoidance measures to dodge the stimulus and redirect a dog’s attention are also management strategies to ditch the bark-fest. These techniques are very successful if the triggers are known or fairly regular. 

Distraction with an engaging toy or chew treat prior to the start of the stimulus will provide a more pleasant alternative to barking and keep your dog’s attention away from the trigger. (This is another exercise that a friend can help you with!) For example, if your dog barks at the door after you leave the house, give her an engaging toy or treat before you start to get ready to leave. By the time you slip out the door, your dog won’t even notice!

If your dog is barking at objects and people outside, try installing or pulling down window shades, moving furniture to eliminate a dog’s favored post at the window, fixing any holes in your home’s fencing, or providing solid outdoor walls instead of gates to help your pup avoid any eye contact with one of his “threats.” Better yet, keeping your pup in a different part of the house during problematic times of day (such as when the postal worker comes by your house, or when the garbage truck is in the street) will ensure your dog will not even know what he is missing! Separating dogs from their stimulus BEFORE they lose their marbles can take some careful attention from the pet parent, but often peace for dog and human can be achieved.

Veterinary Care, Anxiety Medication, and Support for Cognitive Decline

If your dog is exhibiting signs of separation anxiety, cognitive changes due to aging, or an uncharacteristic increase in barking behavior, it is recommended to have your dog examined by your veterinarian. Blood and urine testing may be suggested to rule out any issues with internal organ function, and x-rays may be needed to check bone and joint health. An in-depth discussion with your vet about the behavior your pup is exhibiting at home will help identify if there is a medical problem at play. A full report of when, why, who, how long, and describing your typical response to your dog’s behavior is very helpful to your veterinarian. Feel free to bring in some notes with your observations. Videos of the events are invaluable too! 

In cases where an anxiety disorder is suspected, your veterinarian may recommend combining the talents of a veterinary behaviorist or certified dog trainer with some antidepressant and anxiety medication. This combined approach can help your dog calm down so they can become receptive to coping mechanisms and learn to be less afraid. Medication plus behavior modification training can work wonders for dogs with anxiety and fear-based barking behavior. Like all behavior modification though, it takes time, consistency, and patience for the medications to take full effect and learning to begin.

Cognitive changes (similar to dementia) causing barking in senior dogs can be addressed with supplements, medications, diet changes, and environmental support to help them feel more secure and to calm their aging minds. Unfortunately, there is no specific treatment or cure for Canine Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome, but your veterinarian will take into account the behaviors you are seeing and suggest a treatment plan to try at home in order to bring comfort to your dog.   

Daycare and Dog sitters

If all else fails, or maybe you’re not even a fan of your pup home alone, the chances that you have a doggie daycare or local dog sitter/walker in your town are pretty high these days! These businesses exist for the care and entertainment of dogs while working pet parents are out for the day. For pups who are struggling with barking, a day spent playing and expending energy can help calm them down and make life at home more peaceful. This is especially true for dogs who do well in groups, who have anxiety about being left alone, or who are very high energy and benefit from extra playtime.

Silencing the Bark

Thankfully, we have several effective options to choose from if your pup has decided that barking like crazy fulfills his needs. As you might expect, none of these courses of action result in immediate improvement–they require patience, repetition, and consistency. Although it can get frustrating at times, remember that YOU are your dog’s best friend and the best person to help him through this process. 

Take the time to thoughtfully address your pup’s entire family so that everyone is onboard — especially when it comes to treats, attention, and training goals. Armed with knowledge, actions, toys, and treats you can get that barking under control and establish peace in your home and neighborhood.

Our AskVet Veterinarians are available to discuss all of your pet’s needs 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Whether you have an immediate need to address excessive barking or are looking to improve your pet’s overall wellbeing, just sign into your account and one of our friendly and knowledgeable veterinary experts will attend to your needs, no appointment required!

Written by:

Alexa Waltz, DVM
Dr. Waltz was raised near the beaches of Southern California but has spent her adult life living all over the beautiful United States while serving in the military and as a military spouse. She left California for the first time to pursue a career as a veterinarian at Louisiana State University School of Veterinary Medicine and graduated as a Doctor of Veterinary Medicine in 2006. She was accepted into the US Army Health Professionals Scholarship Program during vet school and upon graduation spent her military years as a veterinarian in San Diego working for the US Marine Corps and US Navy Military Working Dog programs as well as caring for pets of service members. After her military service, she became a civilian veterinarian and continued as a small animal general practitioner at clinics in California, Rhode Island, Colorado, and Maryland. Dr Waltz loves to see her “in person” patients just as much as communicating with and assisting pet parents virtually on AskVet. Dr Waltz is also a Mom to 3 humans, 2 guinea pigs, and 1 Australian Shepherd and in her spare time she loves traveling, adventures, exercising, and doing just about anything out in nature!

Why Do Dogs Sleep All Day?: A Dog Owner’s Guide

On an average day at home, when he’s not busy eating, chances are your dog is probably settled in for a comfy snooze! Haven’t we all gazed enviously at our sleeping dogs and thought “I want to be you” !? Sprawled out on a giant soft dog bed for hours every day, or just awake and chilling on the couch, watching us scurry around the house trying to keep up with life. I think we can all agree that most pet dogs in the United States have it pretty good!

While they are not just being lazy, sleeping is a necessary and natural process for animals and is essential to good health. Humans could probably even take a few cues from our dog’s ability to curl up and recharge! After all, dogs and humans alike experience both slow-wave (NonREM) and REM sleep. During the sleep cycle, the relaxed bodies of humans and animals work to restore and repair muscles, create new brain pathways, consolidate memories, and process the new information gathered during the day. Sleep also contributes to a healthy heart, immune system, weight maintenance, growth, and development. Even though sleep patterns between species are varied, all animals require sleep to stay healthy. Dogs happen to be very good at seeking out that comfy spot, curling up and nodding off periodically throughout their day!

We have established that sleep is healthy, but what is it about dogs that makes them want to sleep so much ? And when they are sleeping, do they dream? What illnesses cause an increase or decrease in sleep? Let’s take a deeper look into a dog’s sleeping habits.

Sleeping for Long Hours is Normal for a Dog

Being ancestors of large carnivores near the “top of the food chain”, dogs can afford this excessive sleeping due to the consumption of calorie-dense meals and free of the fear of “being attacked” (chapter 10 “Sleep in Animals” Kryger, Principles and Practice of Sleep Medicine ). Spending 50% (12 hours!) of their day sleeping, 30% (7 hours!) of their day relaxing awake, and 20% (4 hours!) of their day engaging in activities is pretty normal for the average dog. Dogs are polyphasic sleepers and will catch some zzz’s sporadically through the day, as well as longer periods overnight. The amount of sleep a particular dog needs depends on age, breed, size, activity level, personality, and health.

Puppies, Large Breeds, and Senior Dogs Sleep More

Does it seem like your new puppy is conked out all the time? An average of 18-20 hours per day spent sleeping may seem extreme but is pretty normal for a growing puppy! They play hard and sleep hard, and it’s all totally normal. Your puppy’s brain and body are developing rapidly and much energy is spent zooming around, chewing everything in sight, learning, and soaking in the world around her. At the same time, she is also creating bone, muscle, internal organs, nerve, and brain tissue. All that mental and physical growth calls for napping almost hourly for an average duration of 30 minutes to 2 hours.

Puppies do thrive when their day is scheduled and routines are established by pet parents. This predictability allows ample time for eating, playing, and sleeping. Puppies tend to seek out and spend most of their dozing time in cozy den-like environments like a kennel or crate. Crate training while young is a great way to ensure that your pup finds a comfortable and safe place to call their own and catch some much-needed zzz’s.

Senior dogs aged 7+ (depending on the breed) tend to start slowing down and increasing the time spent sleeping and resting daily as well. We may always view them as our bouncing baby pup, but at an advanced age, senior minds and bodies are changing and becoming less adaptable. You’re not imagining things-your aging dog’s energy reserves are just not what they used to be. While the average healthy adult dog spends 12-14 hours sleeping per day, an older dog will spend even more hours relaxing and asleep.

Large breed dogs (with the exception of very active, high-drive breeds) and more sedentary dog breeds, like Bernese Mountain Dogs, Mastiffs, Great Danes, and English Bulldogs, also have the tendency to sleep more than smaller dog breeds. This is mostly due to their size and the amount of energy exerted moving their larger body around, as well as genetics dictating their motivation and desire to be active (ie, they tend to be big and lazy!).

Active, Hyper-Vigilant, High-Drive Dogs Sleep Less

Just as breeding has created dogs that prefer to veg on the couch as often as possible, there are also breeds that are highly motivated and driven, require lots of activity, and have very active minds. These breeds require a tremendous amount of exercise and activity to drain their daily battery (Belgian Malinois, Border Collie, German Shepherd-I am talking about you guys!). If they do not receive the needed level of exercise and mental stimulation, instead of using downtime to curl up and relax, they may develop unhealthy obsessive habits like pacing, chewing, circling, and also start suffering from anxiety. Finding the right breed for your family’s lifestyle is key to the happiness of the dog and pet owner.

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Do Dogs Dream?

Don’t we wish dogs could recount their dreams to us?! Chasing rabbits? Swimming through a pond of tennis balls? Chowing down in a room full of dog food? Since they can’t tell us what they experience, researchers have gathered evidence through sleep studies in animals indicating that indeed, dogs do dream! A 2001 study at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology showed that rats learning a maze during the day exhibited the same brain waves during REM sleep as they did during their time awake, exploring the maze. This, and many other studies, serves as evidence that they were likely processing their experience and dreaming about what they learned in the maze that day!

Body Movements While Sleeping

While animals sleep, consciousness is reduced and voluntary movement is dampened by parts of the brain. However, petparents are often startled when they witness their dog’s eyes dart around under their eyelids, hear them vocalize a range of sounds, see breathing that is shallow/fast/irregular, and watch their legs move or paddle like they are running. Thankfully, movements like these are considered totally normal! Your new puppy may simply be re-living the day’s events, processing the info their brain collected or taking part in his favorite activity in a dream!

Growing puppies who are absorbing a great deal of information every day, and some adult dogs too, will exhibit quite a bit of movement while sleeping! It is possible, yet rare, to observe (viral on YouTube) more extreme sleeping motions in a dog, that may end up resulting in violent movements, jumping up and running away (still unconscious and asleep), and subsequently waking up. While you may be entertained by videos of this “extreme sleeping,” it’s useful to remember that this is highly abnormal, and not to be expected from the average pup! A little paddling, whining and rapid breathing is much more common. Remember that in your pup’s dreams, he can chase all the bunnies he wants (even better than in real life!)!

Dreams Versus Seizure Activity

Often pet parents will witness these body movements and panic, wondering if their sweet pup is having a seizure. How can we tell the difference? Check out some of the main features of a seizure versus normal involuntary dream movements:

Dream Movements Seizure
Dog is sleeping Dog is awake or asleep
Movements are brief, mild, and intermittent like paddling legs, shallow breathing patterns, and vocal sounds Movements are stiff and rigid, often violent full body convulsions. Sometimes will urinate and defecate, and/or exhibit chewing motions (possibly even bite their tongue)
If woken, movements stop and pup will immediately become conscious and aware of surroundings Remains unresponsive to owner, cannot be aroused from the event while it is occurring
Rises and walks normally when woken After the seizure are often disoriented and walk abnormally for a period of time

AskVet Tip: Waking a sleeping dog comes with risk of startling them and possibly causing them to reflexively bite. When waking a dog, it is suggested to clap, say their name loudly, or gently nudge their bed to get their attention. Children are especially vulnerable to dog bites when they attempt to pet, snuggle, and hug a sleeping dog.

When Changes in Sleep Patterns May Be a Sign of Illness

Are there some occasions when changes in your dog’s sleeping pattern potentially indicates that they are not feeling well? Unfortunately, yes: decreased energy and changes in sleeping patterns can be a sign of several health conditions in dogs. For this reason, it’s important to know what is normal for your dog-and to recognize if she deviates from her normal routine.

Not sure if your pup’s sleep pattern is healthy? To quantify how much sleep your pooch is getting per day, start to keep a “sleep log” and jot down how many hours they spend laying down, resting, and sleeping. Changes in sleep habits should be reported to your veterinarian so that they can perform a physical exam and consider some additional testing and x-rays. These tests will check out those internal body functions, searching for any abnormalities that could be causing your pup’s energy drain. Your dog’s age, breed, and normal activity level will be taken into account when compared to the sleep log results and physical exam findings to reveal some helpful information.

Difficulty Sleeping

Just like in humans, any condition that makes it more difficult to fall and to stay asleep can lead to additional health problems-and a diminished quality of life. Some of the most common causes of difficulty sleeping include pain (from arthritis, injury, or gastrointestinal upset), and difficulty breathing.

Clues that your dog may be experiencing pain and discomfort include hesitating to lay down or having difficulty getting up, not wanting or able to get out of bed, limping or taking abnormal steps once up, or urinating while laying down. You can imagine that if your dog is sore and can’t sleep as well, they may be trying to catch some more zzz’s throughout the day-leading to an increase in hours of sleeping, even though it’s of poor quality.

Snoring and irregular breathing while sleeping is a common feature of those cute little smooshed-nosed breeds like English Bulldogs, Frenchies, Bostons, etc, and can affect sleep quality. These breeds will snore due to a number of issues with their airways stemming from small nasal passages and windpipes, and extra skin in their throat. All of those structures relax and collapse further when they are sleeping, making it difficult for them to breathe and producing the snoring sounds that may keep you up at night. If your dog is an extreme snorer resulting in sleep apnea (he chokes, coughs, or wakes himself up with snores!), a physical exam with your vet is recommended. For our noisy breathers, surgery to correct some of these abnormalities and open up the airways may be necessary depending on severity.

Specific Illnesses Related to More or Less Sleep

There are health conditions that can be directly or indirectly related to your dog wanting to sleep and lay down more. They range from physical/mobility issues to mental issues, and some involve abnormalities of internal organs or the metabolism of your dog.

Health Conditions Causing Increased Sleep Health Conditions Causing Decreased or Fragmented Sleep
Hypothyroid Stress and anxiety
Arthritis Excessive snoring and sleep apnea (smooshed-face dogs)
Heart or Lung Disease Canine Cognitive Dysfunction (senior dogs)
Internal organ dysfunction (often you may also see lethargy, decreased appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, coughing, etc) Pain and internal discomfort
Narcolepsy (suddenly and inappropriately falls asleep) Brain abnormalities

Changes in sleep patterns accompanied by vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, and less energy, are strong indications that something might be wrong and your pup is not feeling well. If you are noticing any of these changes and deviations from the normal routine, a physical examination with your veterinarian should be high on your priority list. On the flip side, sleeping less, pacing, drooling, seeming uncomfortable, increased aggression or changes in personality accompanying decreased sleep can also be an indicator that something internal may be going on.

What if it’s not a Medical Problem?

Boredom can also affect dogs! Dogs that are inactive will likely spend more time sleeping-and subsequently may also have issues with obesity too. Ample trips outdoors multiple times a day, attention from their pet parents, puzzle toys, dog walkers, daycares and outings, can help ensure that your pup is receiving plenty of mental stimulation to encourage appropriate daily amounts of activity and sleep.

Nighty-Night, Pups!

Next time you ponder the hours your pup spends snoozing, just keep in mind that sleeping at periods throughout the day is probably pretty normal and healthy for your precious pooch! Keeping a regular schedule for feeding, ensuring adequate daily exercise, and leaving time for regular naps will ensure that your pup is maintaining a healthy balance. Maintaining a routine is also helpful in determining when changes in your dog’s sleep patterns could indicate a health issue requiring a visit to your vet! Invest in some nice comfy beds, place them in your pup’s preferred sleeping spots, and let him drift off to dreamland and chase those imaginary bunnies to his heart’s content!

Our AskVet Veterinarians are available to discuss all of your pet’s needs 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Whether you have an immediate need or are looking to improve your pet’s overall wellbeing, just sign into your account and one of our friendly and knowledgeable veterinary experts will attend to your needs, no appointment required!

Written by:

Alexa Waltz, DVM

Dr. Waltz was raised near the beaches of Southern California but has spent her adult life living all over the beautiful United States while serving in the military and as a military spouse. She left California for the first time to pursue a career as a veterinarian at Louisiana State University School of Veterinary Medicine and graduated as a Doctor of Veterinary Medicine in 2006. She was accepted into the US Army Health Professionals Scholarship Program during vet school and upon graduation spent her military years as a veterinarian in San Diego working for the US Marine Corps and US Navy Military Working Dog programs as well as caring for pets of service members. After her military service, she became a civilian veterinarian and continued as a small animal general practitioner at clinics in California, Rhode Island, Colorado, and Maryland. Dr Waltz loves to see her “in person” patients just as much as communicating with and assisting pet parents virtually on AskVet. Dr Waltz is also a Mom to 3 humans, 2 guinea pigs, and 1 Australian Shepherd and in her spare time she loves traveling, adventures, exercising, and doing just about anything out in nature!

Signs of Stress in Cats

cute ginger kitten peeking out of a wicker pod

We all want our kitties to live their best life! Even though we try our best to provide them with everything they need to be happy, secure, healthy, and safe, sometimes our cats can still be stressed. But the question still remains: how can you tell if your kitty is experiencing stress or cat anxiety symptoms? 

Stress and Behavior Changes

Since our cats can’t actually talk to us (or to each other!), they express their mental state through their behavior. You probably know that a cat with his ears flattened and pupils dilated is stressed or scared—but what are some more subtle changes we may see? 

The first rule is: know your cat! Some cats have clown-type personalities and love getting into everything or spying on you from all around the house. Some cats are shy by nature, and prefer to slink around the house stealthily or to be curled up at the other end of the couch instead of on your lap. Finally, some cats are true cuddle-bugs who always manage to snuggle up next to or on top of you, no matter where you are or what you are doing at the time! 

Hiding and Antisocial Behavior

Any time your feline friend seems to have a dramatic change from one personality type to another, it is possible that feline stress is the cause—especially if the change lasts longer than one or two days. If your cat always wants to be the center of attention, and instead is hiding in the closet all day and refuses to come out—then he is likely stressed, scared, or physically ill. It’s worth a call to your veterinarian to determine which is more likely, based on what else is happening around the house.

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Displacement Behavior

Stressed-out cats who have little control over their environment will often show us “displacement behaviors.” Kitties who engage in displacement behaviors are taking out their frustration in a physical way—just like some humans do! Unfortunately, these behaviors are often destructive to household items, human or animal housemates, or to kitty’s own physical health. 

Examples of displacement behavior as a stress response can include chewing or scratching furniture and clothes, excessive vocalization and “crying,” and even obsessive licking/grooming behavior. It should be noted that for kitties licking themselves bald/excessive grooming is most often a sign of an itchy skin problem—not an anxiety issue—so, as a cat owner, please check with your veterinarian if this is the only symptom of chronic stress that you are seeing. They may also start chasing or attacking other animals in the household.  Understanding how to calm down a cat with this type of behavior will likely involve pinpointing their source of stress. 

Going Potty Outside the Litter Box 

Wondering, “Why is my cat pooping outside of the litter box?” One of the most common signs of cat stress is a change in their bathroom habits. If your cat is marking their territory by urinating around the house or on the walls instead of their litter tray, then it may be due to stress and feeling insecure. Similarly, anxious cats will often defecate (poop) outside of their litter box as well—and may even experience diarrhea!

Make Sure Your Kitty Is Healthy and Happy

If you’ve noticed your cat exhibiting any of these symptoms, chatting with one of our AskVet veterinarians can help to determine if a mental health issue is to blame, or if a physical exam and lab testing for physical ailments might be needed. 

Our AskVet Veterinarians are available to discuss all of your pet’s needs 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Whether you have an immediate need, want to ask why does my cat randomly bite me, or are looking to improve your pet’s overall wellbeing, just sign into your account and one of our friendly and knowledgeable veterinary experts will attend to your needs, no appointment required!

 

Written by:

Allison Ward, DVM
Dr. Allison Ward grew up in the suburbs of Washington, D.C. and started working in veterinary hospitals when she was 14 years old. After graduating from veterinary school in 2011, she completed a small animal rotating internship in New Jersey, followed by a neurology/neurosurgery internship in Miami. After completing this advanced training, Dr. Ward then moved on to general small animal practice. Dr. Ward’s professional interests include feline medicine, neurology, and pain management. Her passion for educating pet owners carries over into her work with AskVet, and she loves being able to help pets and their parents at all times of the day (and night!). She currently resides in sunny south Florida with her two cats, Larry and George.

Why Is My Cat Pooping Outside The Litter Box?

Blue cat litter box with scoop on wooden floor

If your favorite feline seems to be abandoning his litterbox in favor of greener pastures (or the living room rug!), it’s important to realize that there is almost always a reason why your cat is pooping outside the litter box.

Veterinarians know that some medical issues can cause kitties to poop outside of their litter box, but that cat behavior and hygiene issues are far more common. If your cat is losing weight, vomiting, having diarrhea, or straining to pass a bowel movement, it’s best to start with a vet visit to look for any medical issues that may be altering your cat’s habits. 

If your cat isn’t showing any of these symptoms, there’s good news: as a cat owner, you can do a lot of troubleshooting at home to determine if your cat just needs a bathroom makeover! 

Keep reading to find out what you can do at home to keep your cat from thinking outside of the box.

Litter Box Hygiene

Would you rather use the bathroom in a five-star hotel, or use a Port-a-Potty? That may be the type of choice you are offering your beloved kitty—at least in his eyes! 

Cats are VERY particular about cleanliness, as you know. They spend hours a day grooming themselves to keep their bodies clean, and expect the same standards in their bathroom facilities. Walking into a litter box with urine clumps and excrement can be very off-putting to your kitty. If this happens, it’s no wonder that they may choose to relieve themselves under more “pristine” conditions—even if that is next to the box, or in your living room. 

Keep in mind that litter box fresheners and scented litter may be offensive smells to your cat, so it’s best to implement odor control outside of the box and use unscented litter in it. What smells good to human noses from a distance can be “ewww”inducing to cats when they are up close and personal with the scent,  and can actually serve to deter them from stepping foot inside!

Just like with people, proper hygiene in the bathroom area is essential. Veterinarians hear from cat owners who scoop the litter boxes twice a week—or even less frequently! The buildup of odor, urine, and feces is a HUGE deterrent to most cats when it comes to using their dedicated bathroom. In fact, it’s ideal to scoop the cat poop from the litter tray twice a day, and make sure that your kitties always have access to a clean box by having one more litterbox than there are cats in the household. Yes, for a two-kitty family, that means THREE litter boxes! 

If these logistics are a struggle for your multiple cats and/or home situation, consider investing in an automatic self-cleaning litter box for your furry friend so that they always have a clean option with fresh litter available. 

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Location, Location, Location!

Is your dining room right next to your toilet? No? Well, your cat wouldn’t be cool with that, either! Just like us, cats like to eat in a different area than they use the bathroom. Make sure that your cat’s litter boxes are in locations far away from their food and water bowls to encourage regular use. Sometimes this simple adjustment is all that’s needed to keep your kitty in the box! 

Cats also like peace and quiet during their private time in the bathroom, so be sure to place your litter boxes in areas away from noisy home appliances. While the laundry room might seem like the most convenient place for your cats to do their business, noisy rattling washing machines and dryers might make them too agitated to use the box as they should. Peace, quiet, and privacy are the guidelines for the perfect litter box location. 

Shape and Size

If your cat is house soiling, it may be because they don’t have enough room in the box to properly position themselves and to bury their waste. Natural feline instincts dictate an average of twenty seconds of scooping litter over their urine or feces to hide their scent. If the box is too small, they can’t fulfill this natural part of the elimination process. Any time your cat’s natural instincts are thwarted, it is a recipe for stress—and for looking at other places to do their business. 

As a general rule of thumb, a litter box’s length should be 1.5x the length of the cat’s body (not including their tail). Take your eagle eye to your cat’s box and see if it seems large enough for your kitty. It can be difficult to find a large enough litter box, especially for larger cats, so feel free to repurpose a plastic storage bin into a spacious kitty bathroom.

Some cats prefer to have covered litter boxes, but most cats prefer a more “open air” design. If your current boxes are covered, an easy solution might be to simply remove the cover from the boxes and see if your cat is using them more regularly. 

If you have a senior cat and the sides of your litter boxes are high, your kitty may be experiencing some difficulty getting in and out of the box to do their business. Arthritis is underdiagnosed in cats and is exceedingly common in older cats. If your cat seems to prefer more shallow-entry boxes, make sure to take him to your veterinarian to see if he needs some help with arthritis pain.

The Cafeteria Approach to Cat Litter…and Beyond!

Finally, some cats just don’t like the texture of certain types of cat litter. In general, cats like finer, granulated materials beneath their cute little paws while they posture to poop and pee. Some cat litter particles are sharp and uncomfortable on those delicate paw pads. 

What’s a loving cat parent to do? The “cafeteria approach” can help you select your cat’s favorite litter! Set up a row of three (or more) temporary litter boxes with different litter next to each other in an ideal location. Use a different texture of litter for each box—examples include clumping litter, pine pellets, crystal litter, and waxy pellets. Next, see which box proves to be the most popular place for your kitty to use the bathroom. You might be surprised that your cat’s preference is different from what you have been using! 

You can also use the “cafeteria approach” to test out covered versus uncovered litter boxes, or different shapes/sizes and shallow-entry boxes. 

The Bottom Line

If your cat has started pooping outside of the box, it’s time to re-evaluate their bathroom environment and potential litter box problem. If your cat is losing weight, vomiting, has a change in their appetite, is having diarrhea, or straining to pass bowel movements, then a vet visit should be your first stop! If your kitty is otherwise acting like his normal self and his poops are normal in size and texture, use the tips above to see if you can break the habit of “thinking outside the box.” If your kitty is demonstrating other behavioral issues, we can also help answer questions about how to calm down a cat, signs of stress in cats, as well as “why does my cat randomly bite me.” 

As always, our AskVet Veterinarians are available to discuss all of your pet’s needs 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Whether you have an immediate need or are looking to improve your pet’s overall wellbeing – our Certified Pet Lifestyle Experts can create a custom plan, just sign into your account and one of our friendly and knowledgeable veterinary experts or CPLE will attend to your needs, no appointment required! Sign up today!

 

Written by:

Allison Ward, DVM
Dr. Allison Ward grew up in the suburbs of Washington, D.C. and started working in veterinary hospitals when she was 14 years old. After graduating from veterinary school in 2011, she completed a small animal rotating internship in New Jersey, followed by a neurology/neurosurgery internship in Miami. After completing this advanced training, Dr. Ward then moved on to general small animal practice. Dr. Ward’s professional interests include feline medicine, neurology, and pain management. Her passion for educating pet owners carries over into her work with AskVet, and she loves being able to help pets and their parents at all times of the day (and night!). She currently resides in sunny south Florida with her two cats, Larry and George.

How To Calm Down A Cat 101: A Cat Owner’s Guide

Man in pink shirt photographed from the back while grey cat is huging him around the neck like a child would

If you are concerned that your favorite feline is experiencing stress or anxiety, what should you do? We are here to help! As we’ve discussed, kitty stress can lead to medical problems, as well as unwanted behavior that is destructive to your home and to your relationship. If your cat is exhibiting strange behavior, or you’re asking why does my cat randomly bite me, then keep reading!  We’ll discuss how to pinpoint signs of stress in cats and how to soothe your feline friend to help them live their best life! 

One of the most common causes of stress for kitties is boredom – just like we humans experience. It’s also important to understand that when a cat’s natural instincts are not able to be exercised, they can become anxious, stressed, and develop health problems. Natural cat instincts include scratching, hunting, sleeping, and litter box habits. Here’s a big secret: You may be able to resolve all of your cat’s stress just by providing some simple resources to help turn your home into a kitty paradise! These strategies encourage mentally stimulating activities which help with boredom and also allow your cat to express their natural urges in a healthy, fulfilling way. 

Scratching Instincts

Most of us know the horror of walking in to find a favorite household item or piece of furniture partially shredded by our favorite feline. Why do they do this?! You probably know that cats scratch objects in order to leave their scent behind. Tiny scent glands in their paws are activated by scratching, and so when your “house panther” scratches an object, they are marking it as belonging to them and as part of their territory. Also, cat nails require regular scratching in order to shed the outer layers —similar to an onion–in order to keep them healthy. This means it’s essential for cats to have proper scratching areas, both for both their mental and physical health. 

Some cats like to scratch on horizontal surfaces and some like vertical surfaces. You can purchase inexpensive versions of each type of scratcher and see which your cat utilizes more often—then invest in a longer-lasting version. (We like scratchers made out of sisal material, since it is effective, attractive to your cat, and lasts a long time!) 

Place the new scratcher near your kitty’s favorite scratching spot, sprinkle it with catnip to make it attractive, and gradually move it away from the “unwanted” scratching object as your cat uses the scratcher, until the new scratcher is in its desired location. Depending on the size of your living space, you may want to incorporate multiple scratchers in your household. Fortunately, there are many attractive options on the market that can blend in with your home décor, or become a funny conversation piece!

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Hunting

It’s hard to believe, but your cuddly kitty is actually a powerhouse predator inside. Her brain drives her to stalk, pounce, and catch her food prior to eating—and then sleep it off. 

Cats who aren’t able to fulfill this sequence of events may become irritable or even aggressive towards humans and other animals in the house. To help your kitty express her true self, make sure to incorporate lots of playtime into her routine—and even around mealtime! Take advantage of some of the “feline foraging” toys that cats have to interact with in order to obtain their food, or one of the many food puzzles to choose from. Incorporating playtime before mealtime can also help satisfy your cat’s predatory urges. 

Even if you can’t coordinate play sessions with mealtime, it’s important to carve out even just fifteen minutes a day to have a good-quality play session with your cat. Not only will it improve your bond, but it will help get those happy kitty endorphins flowing! Offer your cat multiple different types of cat toys and see which ones they like best. For some cats, this may mean toys that involve chasing (or even fetching). Other cats prefer “kickers,” or toys that they interact with while laying on their back and grabbing with their front paws while kicking with their back paws. (This adorable cat behavior is actually how cats “in the wild” kill some of their prey–but you can feel free to ignore that fact!) Still, other cats prefer toys they can play with in a solitary spot—like a ball that rolls around inside of a container. Find your cat’s preference and enjoy exploring different options together!

Sleeping

We all know how important a good night’s sleep is for our own mental health—and the same is true for our cats. Did you know that a healthy cat can sleep up to twenty hours a day? (And we are all jealous!) 

It’s important for your kitty to have secure and safe spots in your home for napping. For some cats, this means perches up high (so they can survey their territory), and for others, this means a cozy “cat cave” in a quiet area of the house. Make sure to provide your cat with options for them to get away from the hustle and bustle of a busy household to get some much-needed rest. 

Investing in a cat tree with platforms and cubbies, and strategically placing it near a window for some much-needed outside entertainment, can go a long way towards having a well-rested and content feline companion. These pieces of cat furniture also serve as an escape route for your cat, in case they are overwhelmed by something scary—like a vacuum cleaner, or a rambunctious child. 

Litter Box Habits

You probably know that cats tend to be pretty picky about their bathrooms. Cats can become stressed if their litter box conditions are less than ideal. Make sure to have an appropriate number of boxes in your household—the number of litter boxes should be one more than the number of cats using them. Also, make sure the boxes are large enough to allow your cat to bury their scent, contain your cat’s preferred litter material, and are placed in locations far away from their food and water bowls. Since cats prefer to use the bathroom in a clean place, make sure to scoop your boxes twice a day.

Pheromones and Supplements

Although we try our best to provide our cats with feline paradise, sometimes they need a little extra help to find their mental happy place. Cats are creatures of habit, and when their routine is disrupted by changes that are normal to us humans—such as having overnight guests, renovating your home, adding a new pet to the household, getting ready for a move, or even rearranging the furniture—we can help minimize their anxiety. 

Ask your veterinarian about certain calming supplements for cats, and whether they might be right for your kitty. While there are many over-the-counter chews and supplements for cats, the ones stocked by your veterinarian are proven to be the safest and most effective in promoting feel-good brain chemicals and relaxation. There is even a prescription food available that contains these soothing natural calming agents—and for some cats, this is a great solution to promote a calming effect and kitty bliss! By choosing scientifically studied nutraceuticals through your veterinarian, there is a higher likelihood of success in calming your cat. 

When using supplements, keep in mind that it usually takes about four to six weeks of daily use, before your cat’s stress will be lowered and they will be overall happier and more calm. If you are planning on any major changes to your household (like those described above), it helps to start these supplements in advance, so by the time the stressful situation is happening, your kitty is already feeling happy and content. 

A product called Feliway is available over-the-counter and can also be effective at making your cat’s stress disappear. Feliway is a cat pheromone, or scent used in communication, that imparts a message to your cats that “happy cats have been here, and everything is safe and wonderful!” Feliway is available in sprays that you can use in certain areas of your home, as wipes that can be used to instill loving messages inside of a cat carrier (or even your hands, if you’re dealing with a skittish cat), and as plug-in diffusers. People can’t smell Feliway, and we can see calming effects begin within minutes or even hours. It is safe, and can be used in combination with all of the other strategies we’ve discussed! 

In some cases, cats have true mental health problems and are stressed because they are physiologically deficient in certain feel-good brain chemicals. In these cases, your veterinarian can help with behavior modification by prescribing antidepressant medications to your cat. 

What to Do in the Moment? 

If you’re faced with a cat who is suddenly visibly stressed and anxious, you may see their tail puff out like a hairbrush, flattened ears, dilated pupils, hissing, and swatting behavior. If this happens, being calm around your anxious cat is the key! Although it seems to be against our own natural instincts, try your best not to raise your voice, yell, or scream. A low-pitched voice and calm, slow speaking can go a long way towards settling down your cat. 

Defuse the situation like a pro cat owner by walking slowly and calmly out of the room. If you have a cat toy nearby, slowly pick it up and try to distract the aggressive cat by playing with it, or by tossing a toy away from you so that you can safely leave the room. After your cat has calmed down, take a deep breath, and then try to figure out what may have caused your cat to suddenly become so upset. 

The Bottom Line

The most common causes of feline stress and anxiety are elements within their own environment. Most commonly, cat anxiety is due to being unable to fulfill their natural kitty instincts, boredom, or because changes are occurring within the household. The good news is that most of this is within your control! 

By using the tools we’ve outlined, you have the power to maximize your kitty’s full potential for a healthy and stress-free cat life with you. 

Our AskVet Veterinarians are available to discuss all of your pet’s needs 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Whether it’s learning why your kitty might be biting you, or understanding why a cat is pooping outside the litter box, just sign into your account and one of our friendly and knowledgeable veterinary experts will attend to your needs, no appointment required!

 

Written by:

Allison Ward, DVM
Dr. Allison Ward grew up in the suburbs of Washington, D.C. and started working in veterinary hospitals when she was 14 years old. After graduating from veterinary school in 2011, she completed a small animal rotating internship in New Jersey, followed by a neurology/neurosurgery internship in Miami. After completing this advanced training, Dr. Ward then moved on to general small animal practice. Dr. Ward’s professional interests include feline medicine, neurology, and pain management. Her passion for educating pet owners carries over into her work with AskVet, and she loves being able to help pets and their parents at all times of the day (and night!). She currently resides in sunny south Florida with her two cats, Larry and George.

Puppy Potty Training 101: A Guide To Train Your Puppy Fast

white Jack Russell Terrier puppy sitting among blue flowers in summer

Congratulations, you have just brought home your fluffy new family member and everyone is in love! You’ve pulled the tags off your puppy’s new collar, leash and toys, washed his new food bowl, and assembled his crate. Let the fun begin! And then, the pup has an accident on your rug…and then you find another accident on your bedroom carpet…and a puddle is noted on the kitchen floor…AHH! Get that puppy potty trained ASAP! 

Our veterinarians usually advise on variations of a similar approach to puppy potty training, all with the same common themes of consistency, patience, and positive reinforcement. Some puppies are geniuses and will learn very quickly in a matter of days, where others take their time to catch on and will often even have periods of regression weeks and months into the process. Not only do puppies need to learn where it is appropriate to relieve themselves, they are also learning where NOT to!

Crate Training

Crate training and house training go hand in hand. Knowing how to crate train a puppy helps to foster independence, creates a safe and cozy spot for your puppy to rest, and also will help them learn to train and control their bladder from a young age! Dogs like to keep their den sleeping area clean and will not soil where they sleep. The puppy’s crate should be just big enough for him to lay down, stand up, and turn around, and any extra space should be blocked with a box so that the puppy cannot go potty and then escape to another area. Follow the crate training steps to get your young puppy adjusted and comfortable in their crate while at the same time expediting the house training process using the following helpful hints.

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The Easiest Way to Potty Train a Puppy

Get Ready to Go Outside… a Lot!

The easiest way to help your puppy catch on to your desired potty-training program is to not allow them the opportunity to potty in the house! From the moment that you bring your 8-week-old puppy into your home, get ready to take them outside frequently. Puppies are like infants, and they require a lot of energy from their parents when they are very young. This is all normal, though, and once you have put in the time to establish good habits and expectations, it gets much easier! Keep up the routine and consistent positive message, and your puppy will be faster and more accurate in due time!

When your new puppy first wakes up in the morning, or when you first arrive home from being out, take them out of the crate and immediately go outside to the potty spot (carry them or rush them quickly on a leash). Say a phrase like “go potty” and stand quietly waiting for your puppy to do their business. It is critical to stay still and quiet while the puppy is sniffing around so that you don’t distract them from using the bathroom — their attention spans are very short! 

When they do go potty, praise them extensively and give them a treat; positive reinforcement goes a long way! Puppies need to have the treat within two seconds of exhibiting the desired behavior for their brain to associate the action and the reward. Training treats that you keep in your pocket are an essential tool for potty training. 

Once your puppy has performed #1 and #2, it is time to return inside. If they do not accomplish both tasks, you have the option of returning your puppy to their crate for another 15 minutes and then repeating the process, or you can keep your puppy closely tethered to you on a leash inside so you can watch for signs that they need to go (sniffing the ground, whining, circling, looking towards the door or outside) and then plan on returning outside every 15-30 minutes until the full mission is accomplished. 

Once your puppy has used the bathroom outside, try to frequent the potty spot again and again, approximately every hour when you are just starting out! Puppies have tiny bladders and will often pee when they first feel the urge, so taking them outdoors often enough to prevent random squatting in the house will keep the concept clear.

Keep On Schedule

Keep in mind that puppies generally need to potty within 30 minutes to an hour after eating. So, in addition to navigating what to feed a puppy, it’s also important to create a potty schedule around their diet. Plan on feeding your pup their three meals a day and spending some time outdoors during that hour after eating until you witness their potty accomplishments. Timing these trips will give more opportunity for success and help your puppy to master the concepts more quickly! Prior to bedtime, take your puppy out for a final potty break just before putting them in their crate and turning in for the night.

Training Setbacks and Accidents

What to do when you catch your puppy in the act of squatting in the house? Pick them up immediately and go outside to the potty spot (or gently nudge them towards the outdoors if they are too large to carry). Hopefully, they will stop mid-process and ideally continue the job outdoors. Punishing an accident indoors only creates fear, and we do not recommend any repercussions for these slip-ups. Praise when finishing the deed outside is always encouraged! Although accidents in the house are frustrating, it’s important to remember that rewarding the behavior you want and ignoring the behavior you don’t want is much more effective than any punishment — and it creates a stronger bond between you and your puppy.

And when you find the puddle or pile on your rug or hardwood floor and the pup is long gone? Just grab your enzymatic cleaner (one of the essential things you need for a puppy) and clean up that mess! Your puppy has already forgotten about that mistake, so once you’ve tossed the evidence, you should too! Showing them their mistake or telling them about it does nothing but potentially cause fear. Just clean up the mess, and move right along, making plans for your next outdoor potty outing with your puppy!

Some General Tips and Tricks

As a rule of thumb, puppies can be crated and hold their bladders for the same number of hours as they are in months. For example, an 8-week-old puppy can be crated for up to 2 hours a day and through the night if they are sleeping. Also, be sure they did not drink a large amount of water and that they had a potty break prior to crating. When you are in the earlier stages of crate and puppy potty training, it is wise to place the crate overnight in the bedroom, so you can hear any whining that might indicate the youngster needs to take a potty break outdoors. We do need to be careful that we are not praising whining by allowing them out of their crate for fun playtime. Whining at night should be greeted by a quick trip outdoors, minimal excitement and fun (unless they potty, then they can be praised), and then straight back into the crate with a treat to continue bedtime.

Again, some puppies will take an extended period of time (months even) to become fully house-trained but keep at it! If your puppy seems to relapse a bit, backtrack in your training and continue the frequent trips outdoors every 1-2 hours until you have reminded them of the program. New surroundings and changes in the home may be greeted by some potty regression, too … just back up a little and get them back on track! 

Sadly, many dogs are relinquished to shelters for potty-related behavior issues, likely due to incomplete training when they were young, and it can cost them their family. If your puppy seems to be having what seems like an abnormal experience, your AskVet veterinarians are ready to assess your situation, provide some troubleshooting tips and assess the need to take the next steps to have your family veterinarian test for a urinary tract infection, bladder or kidney problem.  

Puppy Training Pads and Real/Artificial Grass Substrates 

Where it is traditional for dogs to use the outdoors and nature as their restroom, the modern city dog, some tiny toy breeds or during times of adverse weather conditions and global pandemics, some pet parents turn to an indoor potty pad or real/artificial grass substrates for their puppies. The same principles apply as above, just take your puppy to the desired potty option and be consistent and positive! Changing from indoors to outdoors can cause some confusion, but with repetition, patience and persistence, it can be accomplished. 

Yay, My Puppy is Potty Trained!

Congratulations on being a puppy owner that put the time and patience into teaching your young puppy the appropriate place to relieve themselves. That is no easy task! As puppies learn and mature, your trips outdoors can become less frequent and more focused on enjoying the outside world. Continue providing them their daily walks and outdoor exercise since it is vital to their mental, physical and emotional health and more fun for you both! And always remember that your AskVet Care Squad is available to answer questions and help you make the most of your time together!  

Our AskVet Veterinarians are available to discuss all of your pet’s needs 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Whether you have an immediate need or are looking to improve your pet’s overall wellbeing, just sign in to your account, and one of our friendly and knowledgeable veterinary experts will attend to your needs, no appointment required!

 

Written by:

Alexa Waltz, DVM

Dr. Waltz was raised near the beaches of Southern California but has spent her adult life living all over the beautiful United States while serving in the military and as a military spouse. She left California for the first time to pursue a career as a veterinarian at Louisiana State University School of Veterinary Medicine and graduated as a Doctor of Veterinary Medicine in 2006. She was accepted into the US Army Health Professionals Scholarship Program during vet school and upon graduation spent her military years as a veterinarian in San Diego working for the US Marine Corps and US Navy Military Working Dog programs as well as caring for pets of service members. After her military service, she became a civilian veterinarian and continued as a small animal general practitioner at clinics in California, Rhode Island, Colorado, and Maryland. Dr Waltz loves to see her “in person” patients just as much as communicating with and assisting pet parents virtually on AskVet. Dr Waltz is also a Mom to 3 humans, 2 guinea pigs, and 1 Australian Shepherd and in her spare time she loves traveling, adventures, exercising, and doing just about anything out in nature!

How To Crate Train A Puppy: A Full Guide

Closeup of fox red Labrador retriever puppy inside wire crate sleeping on his back

Tiny collar, new bed, new toys, NEW CRATE! Bringing a new puppy home is an exciting time! Aside from being full of cuteness and snuggles, it is also a time for learning and change – both for the puppy and for their new family. Our veterinarians consider the dog crate as one of the essential things you need for a puppy. We recommend obtaining a comfy crate and starting to crate-train right away!      

 While many people immediately think of a dog crate as a “prison” to your pup, in fact, it is just the opposite – a safe space where good things happen. Just like we feel secure in our homes and bedrooms, dogs naturally enjoy sleeping in den-like small, enclosed spaces. Using positive reinforcement to harness their natural instincts, dogs are easily trained to recognize a crate as a cozy and safe place.      

Puppy training using the crate also fosters independence, self-confidence and gives your dog a place of their own away from the chaos of the household. Future travel by car and airplane is much less anxiety-provoking if dogs are crate trained beforehand, and the crate can also serve as a useful tool in house-training young puppies since they don’t like to soil where they sleep!  Crate training and house-training go hand in hand, so refer to some helpful tips on how to potty train a puppy to combine these two techniques to achieve puppy training success. 

Picking a Crate for Your Puppy

Browsing crates at the pet store can be overwhelming! Crates come in many sizes and materials, but above all, you want to be sure the crate is safe, durable and comfortable. But what size crate should you purchase? 

The theory behind the success of the crate as a puppy training tool is that dogs find comfort and safety in small, familiar spaces. They also like to keep their cozy sleeping area clean and will not soil where they sleep. When the puppy is small, it is ideal to block excess space with a box so that they are not tempted to potty in one end and retreat to the other. Where purchasing or borrowing multiple-sized crates is not always practical, a good guideline might be to anticipate the puppy’s adult size and imagine them inside the crate laying down, standing up, and turning around easily. 

Keeping your puppy’s adult size and needs in mind will likely result in a crate that will be a good long-term fit. When your puppy is little, just enclose the extra floor space with a plastic or cardboard box, depending on their ability and desire to chew different materials! Alternatively, some crates have built-in adjustable dividers that can be moved to accommodate your large-breed puppy as they grow.

Manufacturers offer crates in several different materials and designs, and each option has different pros and cons:

Plastic, or “flight kennel”  

  • Medium weight
  • Durable
  • Easy to clean and move
  • Provides more of a darker den-like atmosphere with less visual stimulation for your puppy 
  • Can be used on a plane flight

Metal wire 

  • Easy to move
  • Folds flat
  • Clear visibility inside the crate
  • Least secure and easiest to escape

Fabric/soft sided or collapsible 

  • Lightweight, but not secure for strong and active dogs 
  • Fabric can get wet and hold moisture
  • More difficult to clean
  • Better used for temporary car travel

Furniture/designer crates  

  • Aesthetically pleasing 
  • Heavy and durable 
  • Not easily moved or used for transport 

Crate alternatives (exercise playpens or limiting space in a room) 

  • Large and not as amenable for potty training
  • Not as secure 
  • More space to move around 
  • Suitable for puppies that need to be restricted for longer than they can hold their bladder (since you can put potty pads or a grass substrate inside) 
  • Can put a small sleeping crate inside the pen, but does not achieve the same result as crate training

Now that you have selected your puppy crate, what do you put inside of it? To create a cozy and inviting interior for your puppy, there are several options. You can place a firm crate mat, small bed or just a towel or blanket on the floor of the crate.

AskVet Tip: Some puppies are chewers, and it is wise to limit the opportunity for your puppy to tear up and destroy their bedding! Pieces of bedding might be swallowed, creating a medical emergency, so the durability of the bedding material and your puppy’s chewing habits might dictate what can be used inside the crate. Less might be more when just starting out with a new pup! 

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How to Crate Train Your Puppy

You and your new puppy are now ready to take on the process of crate training!

It is SO important that, to your puppy, the crate is a positive and comfortable place and never a punishment. Consistent positive reinforcement is key; puppies are rewarded with treats, toys and attention for being calm inside their crate. Negative behavior like barking and whining are not rewarded … until they are followed by calm behavior! Limit the time in the crate based on the dog’s age, bladder control and total crated hours daily. 

To reduce crate time, hire a dog walker or consider daycare as an option for long days. Anxiety, depression and behavior issues can develop when a dog is crated all day and night through lack of human interaction, mental stimulation and exercise. If done correctly, your puppy will grow to love their crate as their own special place where they can rest, nap and feel secure! 

The Process: 

  1. To start out, during the day, place the empty puppy crate in a central location where the household family members spend a lot of time. In the evening, when your puppy is ready to stay overnight inside the crate (see below), placing the crate in closer proximity to the bedroom will facilitate hearing young puppies whining to potty. With progress, the crate can be left in one central location 24 hours a day. 
  2. When first introducing your puppy to the crate, take the crate door off or secure it, so it does not move suddenly and create fear if the puppy bumps it. Allow your puppy to explore the new crate at their leisure and get used to seeing it as a normal fixture in the environment. Placing treats near the crate will establish it as a positive object through the eyes of your puppy!     
  3. Start cheerfully giving your young puppy daily meals just outside the crate opening for a few days. 
  4. Once your young puppy is comfortable with eating just outside the crate, move the food bowl just INSIDE the crate opening. Serve all of your puppy’s meals here.  As your puppy becomes more and more comfortable, the bowl can be placed further inside the crate, all the way until it reaches the back wall and your puppy’s body is completely inside. The speed at which comfort is established will depend on the puppy. Some will be trained to go all the way in for their meals in a matter of a few feedings, and others will take days to a week. Patience, consistency and positivity are key! 
  5. Once your new puppy is eating their meals fully inside the crate, close the door while they eat. When they are done and notice the door is closed, relaxed and calm behavior can be rewarded with additional treats. Opening the crate door and having them remain sitting or lying down calmly can also be rewarded. Running out, whining, pawing at the door and barking are not rewarded — it is essential that your puppy only be rewarded when they are relaxed and calm inside the crate.      
  6. Adding a command: Start to train your puppy to enter the crate using a desired command like “crate,” “house” or “kennel.” While you are placing the food inside the crate, throwing in a treat or loved toy or pointing to the crate with a treat in your hand, say the same command word. With repetition, your puppy will associate that word with the action of entering the crate and being rewarded. When they do enter, praise them and give a treat, toy or their food as a reward, and then close the door.
  7. Once your puppy is comfortable in the crate with the door closed, they are ready to spend more time inside. While they are resting or sitting quietly in the crate, busy yourself nearby for 5-10 minutes. At the end of the period, reward a nicely relaxed puppy with a treat and attention. Continue short periods like this, but expand your activity to other rooms of the house where you are out of your puppy’s sight. Increase the period of time you are away from your puppy, and repeat this several times a day — always coming back to reward a nice, calm puppy. Your puppy is learning that he is ok on his own without you and that you always come back! Once they can stay calm for 30 minutes with you out of sight, crating your puppy while you leave the house for short periods of time is appropriate.
  8. When short trips out of the house are successful, your puppy can graduate to spending a longer duration in their crate. Always be sure they have had a potty break prior to spending any length of time inside the crate. Vary your routine prior to leaving the house, as to not create anxiety due to anticipation of your absence. At this point, your puppy is also ready for overnights inside the crate.

Some Additional Helpful Tips for Crate Training

  • As a rule of thumb, puppies can be crated and hold their bladders for the same number of hours as they are in months. For example, an 8-week-old puppy can be crated for up to 2 hours a day and through the night if they are sleeping. Also, be sure they did not drink a large amount of water and that they had a potty break prior to entering. 
  • Favorite toys and chews, Kong food toys, slathering peanut butter (Xylitol free) on the rear interior wall of the crate, and hiding treats around the floor of the crate always make time in the crate more desirable too. 
  • If your puppy seems to not be taking well to the crate, our AskVet Care Squad is happy to troubleshoot and help answer your questions and provide some suggestions. 

Yay, My Puppy is Crate Trained! 

Congratulations on devoting the patience and persistence needed for your pup to become comfortable in their crate! Your puppy now has a cozy space to call his own, will have less anxiety while traveling or being caged in other settings (like the vet clinic or at the groomer), and will be more confident and relaxed if he is separated from you. You may even find that when you are home, your puppy will chill out and nap in his crate on his own! Crate training makes a more balanced and happier puppy and improves their overall safety inside the home! 

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Written by:

Alexa Waltz, DVM

Dr. Waltz was raised near the beaches of Southern California but has spent her adult life living all over the beautiful United States while serving in the military and as a military spouse. She left California for the first time to pursue a career as a veterinarian at Louisiana State University School of Veterinary Medicine and graduated as a Doctor of Veterinary Medicine in 2006. She was accepted into the US Army Health Professionals Scholarship Program during vet school and upon graduation spent her military years as a veterinarian in San Diego working for the US Marine Corps and US Navy Military Working Dog programs as well as caring for pets of service members. After her military service, she became a civilian veterinarian and continued as a small animal general practitioner at clinics in California, Rhode Island, Colorado, and Maryland. Dr Waltz loves to see her “in person” patients just as much as communicating with and assisting pet parents virtually on AskVet. Dr Waltz is also a Mom to 3 humans, 2 guinea pigs, and 1 Australian Shepherd and in her spare time she loves traveling, adventures, exercising, and doing just about anything out in nature!